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spring rates...
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tricknology



Joined: 06 Oct 2006
Posts: 174

PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GM RWD cars had many sway bar diameters based on the car's intended use, such as stipped base model with a V6, Towing, Taxi, Police, Stationwagon, or gm handeling package option.

To make a stock sway bar adjustable, many racers use one or a combination of the following,,,,

use threaded rod on the links,

put spacers between the Sway bar frame mounts and the front frame horns.

Use a very big hyd press and COLD bend the arms to get your proper sway bar setting.


IMHO, Threaded rod should be allowed in all stock type classes, it makes using a big PRESS and bending the arms un-nessesary,,,which people will do to get by the teching process, if threaded rod is not allowed.
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lansingsportsrage.com



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
Posts: 1078

PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it didn't come with threaded rod on the links.. then that's not stock.

If it didn't have spacers on the sway frame mounts, then that's not stock.

If you bend the arms, then that's not stock.

Of course.. there is nothing stock about stock car racing and everything is open to the inspectors interperation of the rules...
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tricknology



Joined: 06 Oct 2006
Posts: 174

PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I deal in the Real World of Short track racing,,,

I have helped build enduro type cars where we twisted the frame to get the correct wedge/cross weight we wanted then welded in the cage to keep the frame twisted. this was was a class where the rules were, NO spacers, no adjusters, equal springs,,,

Yea the car looked like it had been in a wreck when it hit the track,,, but it was fast.
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monzilla80



Joined: 07 Sep 2006
Posts: 65
Location: Holt

PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the big question is, are we allowed to run spacers, adjustable links or bend our suspension components?
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Mopar93



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
Posts: 938
Location: Charlotte, Michigan

PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before anyone goes and bends their chassis and/or chassis components or makes any modification that isn't allowed, think about the amount of work needed to undo any of those modifications once it is discovered?

We will be doing our best to keep the Pure Stock class under control. Just remember, there are 4 ways to fix a problem:

1. Require that the car be fixed.

2. Allow the car to remain as is, but add a penalty such as weight or exhaust restriction.

3. Bump the car up to the Sportsman class.

4. Permanently ban the car from any further competition.

Knowingly making any modifications that are not allowed is not the fault of the speedway and teching will be performed to keep this class affordable, fun, and competitive.

I've always felt it's better to make one driver mad than to make 20 drivers mad. Think about that.

-Maurice
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tricknology



Joined: 06 Oct 2006
Posts: 174

PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also built a car for a class that stated engine must be in stock location,,,

well all they looked for was how far the fire wall was from the engine,, so i slid the body back on the frame rails 4 inches, which gave me more rear weight and i could move the moter back 4 inches!
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tricknology



Joined: 06 Oct 2006
Posts: 174

PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

here is a link to an OLD discusion topic about Pure Stock/Lead Sled type cars....


http://www.mstrc.com/index.php?showtopic=4062

a typical Wink posting,,,

"""In my humble opinion,

Auto City did a good thing in 2004 when they went to single exhaust and eliminated locked rear ends.... this was to make powerfull engines less effective, and have less of an advantage.

Now guys are spending $500 on stiffer springs and shocks. And if you buy the wrong rate spring you get to spend more money untill you come up with the ideal spring combination for your lead sled.

How about saving racers the $500 on springs and shocks by Eliminating the springs and shocks, and make the suspension solid like a go-kart?

by making the suspension solid like a go kart, you eliminate the need for racing springs, shocks and sway bars.

Relpace the springs with 5 inch round steel tubing, and lash the supension tight to the frame, so all up and down movement would be eliminated.

All springs, shocks and sway bars have to be removed.

have minimum frame height of either 3, 4, or 5 inches.

Whatt you would have is 3,500 pound go Karts!

wedge would be adjusted by tire size and pressure.

with a solid rear and front suspensions, the cars would have LESS REAR traction, which would make powerfull engines less effective, and they would be MORE loose, which would make for a DIRT track type show on asphalt. The driving style would be to SLIDE the car thru the truns in a 4 wheel drift like they do on dirt.

What do you think? """


Last edited by tricknology on Mon Mar 19, 2007 9:06 am; edited 1 time in total
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tricknology



Joined: 06 Oct 2006
Posts: 174

PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 9:05 am    Post subject: CHECKING AND SETTING WEDGE/CROSSWEIGHT WITHOUT USING SCALES Reply with quote

From,,,,

http://www.mstrc.com/index.php?showtopic=5646

CHECKING AND SETTING WEDGE/CROSSWEIGHT WITHOUT USING SCALES

You will need;
Floor jack
Tape Measure
1 1/8 to 1 ˝ inch shallow socket
A level piece of pavement

This is done with the driver OUT of the car.

Put the car on a level piece of pavement with the front wheels pointed straight ahead, Not turned.

Place the Socket on center of the pad of your floor jack with the ˝ `` square drive pointed UP.

From the Back of the car, roll the floor jack under the rear axle until the socket lines up with the CENTER of the rear axel. The socket is to act as a pivot under the rear axel.

Carefully and Slowly jack up the rear axle, IF you have wedge/crossweight the right rear wheel will lift off the ground FIRST because it has LESS weight on it,
Then continue jacking until the LEFT rear just clears the ground and spins freely.

STOP.

Now you will measure and calculate your wedge.
Both rear wheels will now be off the ground, but the Right rear will be much higher off the ground. This is positive wedge.
NOTE: If your car has the opposite condition ( LR higher than the RR ) you have Negative wedge ( a Bad thing that causes a very loose car)

Go to the RR wheel.

Using your Tape measure, place the Tang at the 12 O’clock position of the RIM bead and extend the body of the tape measure straight down to the ground in a straight line.

Now READ the tape measurement, you do not have to compensate for the length of the body of the tape, just read it direct as you see it.

Record that measurement.

Go to the LR wheel.

Using your Tape measure, place the Tang at the 12 O’clock position of the RIM bead and extend the body of the tape measure straight down to the ground in a straight line.

Now READ the tape measurement, you do not have to compensate for the length of the body of the tape,
Because you are going to calculate the difference in height from right to left.
Just read it direct as you see it.

Record that measurement.

Subtract the LR form the RR.

That dimension is your wedge in INCHES, (not in % or pounds).

Most street stocks run 5 to 8 inches of positive wedge.

More inches of wedge = more crossweight.

More wedge = tight

Less wedge = loose.

Whenever you change tires, tire pressures, sway bar pre-load, springs, or move lead around, re-check your wedge this way.

Always check your wedge after every heat race and AFTER every feature race and record all your measurements.


PS> it turns out that for most street stocks for every inch of wedge ( Plus or minus 1/4 inch ) = 1 % of crossweight.

Sooo...for some cars every 3/4 "" = 1% for other cars every 1 1/4 ''" = 1 % of crossweight.

Measure IT before and after EVERY RACE.
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